Monday, September 21, 2009

Loris Diran S/S 2010





Loris Diran's opening statement:
"This collection is inspired by the bawdy, forever sunny shores of Coney Island. In this time of constant fear and anxiety, I want to have fun again... See colors that make me happy... Take chances. I want to feel the thrilling anticipation that I felt as i would see the Wonder Wheel for the first time every summer."

When we read this we cringed in fear as the inspiration for this S/S 2010 collection. Designers draw inspiration from all sources, but we had reservation on what Mr. Diran would show. What we came away with was a mixed collection and a sense of confusion comparing from past seasons. Last year we felt Mr. Diran's men's wear was stronger and more focused then his women's line, but after this show we feel the women's has taken the fore front and the men's wear is lacking. His opening Poppy Silk/cotton Voile draped blouse with washed rope linen walking shorts was a solid start. As well his high waisted pants and silk/linen box pleat pant showed strong. For evening the cream silk gazar and chain drape gown stood out but we feel the chain detail distracts the eye. But remember not everything you see on the runway will translate into the stores and this detail can be removed if requested.

Fear and anxiety as mentioned in his opening statement are strong words to consider in times like these. We feel Mr. Diran needs to make a conscious decision on weather he will be a men's wear or women's wear designer. It reminds us years ago when Tom Ford designed both YSL and Gucci and we knew one would suffer. He's not designing for two houses but all the same it seems either he may have to create a balance between the two lines or sacrifice one. The upcoming fall season will tell the tale.

Photos: Loris Diran Trading LLC

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