Yuming Weng~Academy of Art University

My second pick from Academy of Art University is Yuming Weng who hails from China. She does not have any background in working with any named designers so it seems the natural talent is just there within her.

The inspiration for her collection by Henrietta Harris' soft distorted portraits, now I don't know of her inspiration but her choice of color and the use of "ripple-cut" and boiled wool impressed me greatly. Yuming knows how to structure garments which creates lines and proportions seen by other more established designers. As well the limited color choice of silver, stone and pewter shows a color direction which worked well for her.

Photos: Randy Brooke

Academy of Art University~Heather McDonald

Thank goodness for the internet and friends in some what high places that I got a chance to view this young lady's wonderful 9 piece collection which she showed at Mercedes~Benz Fashion Week. Heather McDonald who hails from Alberta Canada earned a Bachelor degree in Biology and Anthropology from University of Toronto but then continued her education at Academy of Art with a degree in Fashion and Knitwear. While getting her degree she did internships at VPL in New York City.

Her collection is inspired from the 1927 movie Metropolis which explores the relationship between humans and technology. Granted I have seen this inspiration before but Heather seems to understand it better and it shows with her debut collection.

Photos: Randy Brooke

Mathieu Mirano Fall 2013~On The Radar

Sometimes fashion is like horse racing (my favorite sport) and you get a hot tip on a designer. This happened to me last season when a fellow editor told me about Mathieu Mirano, I was sure to catch his presentation this season. Well true to form; the tip was correct and Mr. Mirano showed a small concise collection which demonstrated focus, color restriction and a balance so to say in his designs.

There were only 23 look in his presentation but when you factor in the "less is more" concept it works well in his favor! Being a relative new designer he seems to be playing the current design/retail market smartly and showing just enough.

Aside from his laser like focus on design he's not afraid to "shake the reigns" and offer some red carpet contenders for upcoming award seasons.

Looks that caught my eye the most were his Long multicolor sequin gown (red carpet) as well Stingray embroidered strapless gown. As for a day look the Black merino and metallic grid sweater with Black stretch leather leggings seemed so New York City.

Photos: Richard Spiegel

Nautica Returns To The Runway~Fall 2013

It's been quite some time since the house of Nautica has done a runway show, granted they have taken care of us editors and photographers for quite some time with lavish presentations, which I fully appreciate. As for what they sent down the runway is a much needed commodity in menswear which is great looking outerwear.

If your looking for heavy looking style cable knit style sweaters and smartly cut overcoats, Nautica delivered a full house of these styles! All the colors are regular guy friendly and keep with the bold color Nautica theme we have seen for many a season.

A few looks that caught my eye were the blue/black ski parka and the salt & pepper overcoat as well the semi indoor dark grey jacket paired with white pants.

Photos: Richard Spiegel

Ann Yee Fall 2013-Knit One

Ann Yee showed a knitwear collection with a colorful silk print tossed in which I loved. Her decision to show in a loft penthouse space delivered beautiful natural light which only added to the presentation. Yet again another designer who is looking the landscape of America's current situation and producing just enough clothes.

Another aspect of this collection which grips me is the lack of black and her utilization of other colors. This designer has a clear vision of what and who she wants to dress! Refreshing, bravo!

Photos: Richard Spiegel

Boast Fall 2013

Held at the Harvard Club in New York City, the fashion house Boast held their presentation which was a classic example of that clean cut prep dress that I love so much! Being an upper east side resident the look is a staple up in these parts of town. A small collection which hit all the right notes.

This is a relaxed weekend style collection but steeped in traditional dress of color block sweaters, letter men (think varsity football). The small tote bags are a nice addition to this collection since most houses don't offer accessories, but could totally see them on a Metro-North train to Westport Connecticut.

Photos: Richard Spiegel

Veronica Beard Fall 2013

Veronica Swanson Beard and Veronica Miele Beard interestingly enough "sister-in-laws" are co-designers of Veronica Beard. It's my first time viewing the collection and the location of Bill's an old landmark New York City watering hole could not have been a more perfect place to show this great collection!

Small in looks only about 10-15 models, the range of this collection is classic American outdoor sportswear, with some elegant twists. The black leather skinny trouser paired with a grass washed silk twill tie neck tunic dress worked well against the old hunting inspired interior of the bar. Other looks I loved were the gold velvet lame' saloon jacket paired with a black wheat field print gown. As well I like the men's inspired suiting.

In total this collection offers a good range of different looks as well as investment pieces which will last for years to come.

Photos: Richard Spiegel

Lyn Devon Fall 2013

For fall 2013 Lyn Devon showed a small concise collection this directional thought in mind. With only 20 pieces in play, this collection delivers on many front. The salt & pepper pieces are investment worthy.

 The overcoats and jackets are expertly cut and the fabrics are yummy and delicious! You can only say that when your up close and personal with a collection, another reason why I love presentations.

The high waisted pants are a nice change from different cuts we all have seen in general over the years. As well the toned down elegance of this line makes for an accessories party in the making. Overall a great collection.

Photos: House of Lyn Devon

Tanya Taylor Fall 2013

Tanya Taylor showed a full collection at The Museum Of Modern Art with a four section presentation. The layout made things easy for the crowd to make there way around the clothing. The strongest pieces from this line for my money is the outerwear. The copper MC jacket very original and a editorial piece no doubt! As for the separates it seems to be a little hit or miss and seems to lean on design themes I've seen before. In the end it maybe a situation of Tanya finding her customer?

Photos: Richard Spiegel

Jonathan Cohen Fall 2013-Trip The Light Fantastic

For fall 2013 Up and coming designer Jonathan Cohen showed a tight small focused collection which displayed his creativity for fashion design. His discovery NOT inspiration was landed upon by a collaboration with photographer Spencer Ostrander, where they used glow sticks in a dark room and set the camera at different shutter speeds and f/stops, thusly creating a multitude of liquid color.

Mr.Cohen's past collections have been created with a natural form as well, the discovery process is a wonderful tool when you let things, the universe, your own mind guide your design. It seems he's sticking with what works! His prints are thought provoking, hypnotic and editorial!

Photos: Richard Spiegel