Duckie Brown saves ground! S/S 2012

Photos: Courtesy Duckie Brown

As the fashion journey continues for Duckie Brown they seemed to save ground with this collection. By far this was not a stellar collection but in all due respect was not a disaster either. What was shown was a safe collection for Spring 2012 with a floral twist at the end which might be their savior when buyers come calling.


The silhouette seems a little looser then seasons past and could pass as a relaxed weekend/resort look. The micro fabric pieces still dot the collection but the soft floral pieces might entice their customer even more. Its a smart collection with only twenty five looks but you need to pick through it to find the gold!

The Addison Collection Fall 2011

In the midst of post fashion week chaos our friends over at LaForce & Stevens PR sent over a email alerting us to a new client "The Addison Collection". From the photographs sent the collection has a retro theme and speaks to us and is something worth checking out, and yes you can go out and but this now!

Zang Toi S/S 2012

Photos: Image.net

Smart, attentive, focused are a few words to describe Zang Toi as a designer. While some designers for S/S 2012 when out on a limb and played long shot chances with their collections, Mr. Toi sent down a collection which should have buyers banging down his door for sales! Its very clear that Zang Toi follows more than just fashion as it seems he's listening to his customer, buyers and the business world in general.

The collection might have a African theme but from what he showed it seems is less African and more main street in a positive way. Financially, times are still tight but it does not prevent women from that age old addiction of shopping! More so pieces from this collection are investable in nature and can  be worn years down the road, lets face it his clothing does not come cheap but there worth the money!

Douglas Hannant Pink

Photos: Richard Spiegel

It seems while other designers are circling the wagons in this fragile economy Douglas Hannant moves blindly forward. Over the past few years there has been a Jewelry and bridal launch as well fragrance which was documented by WWD stating it could do $10 million in the first year of sales. Mr. Hannant would be lucky to bank $500,000.00 since his name is a niche market player and not on the lips of most of the world.

Pink it seems is a new diffusion line which seems more of an act of desperation then a focused attempt of trying to find a new/younger customer.  From what was shown there seems to be no focus to the collection.   Adding insult to injury the collection was shown in a basement hotel with a loud rock band providing the soundtrack to this new line. 

The burning question is? Who is really in control at the house of Douglas Hannant? For those who have followed the house the man in front has been Frederick Anderson running around like a political candidate  doing interviews speaking for the house and air kissing wealthy women of the upper east side. As for Mr. Hannant he seems more of a mystery than a designer since little is known about him.  It seems the roles should be reversed but many questions remain unanswered. 

My feeling is that Pink is a throw on the wall collection and if buyers are interested pieces may be produced but the longer term plan seems of more interest. Younger designers like Norman Ambrose are poaching his customer base season after season and seem more in touch with what todays women wants and needs.

Douglas Hannant S/S 2012

 To date, my history with the house of Douglas Hannant spans well over ten years and not to consider myself an expert I have seen quite a bit of clothing come out of this designer. For Spring 2012 the inspiration was Shanghai 1930's, last season roaring 1920's and before that a Jean Michael Basquit 1980's reference. These trips from the past might be cute but with today's technology regardless of age; his customer is a woman of today who does not live in the past.

For spring this season its a better collection from what he has shown in the past; but the amount of clothing and the "accessories" that the house of Hannant has delivered in this economy is out of touch with today's times but still does not seem to phase this house. From fragrance to jewelry to bridal and now handbags which are not bad at all, I noticed one shopper style on the runway, it seems like a house that is out of touch with today's times. While most designers are showing twenty to twenty-five piece collection, a forty plus collection is delivered.

As for the clothing this season its the simpler pieces that show Mr. Hannant's true design talents and what built his house from the start. A great pair of fitted white pants, coat or jacket in any color for that matter is what his customer is truly looking for and thankfully can still deliver. But as the years go by there are newer designers who are gunning for the same customer, offering up fresher designs at better prices and let us not forget that granted his customer is a lady of leisure, sometimes they do need the approval from their husbands to buy! We are still in a recession.

Photos: Richard Spiegel

Mimi Plange S/S 2012

Designer Mimi Plange does not ring bells with me since keeping up with every fashion designer is next to impossible but if there ever was a designer who was smart in her approach to showing her collection Ms.Plange triumphs! Showing roughly 15 pieces with a few accessories at the Asia Society was a low key elegant affair but her clothing speaks volumes. Color and nature are wonderful combination and she has worked these elements flawlessly into spring. Bright colorful dresses with fitted architectural elements make for statement dressing. If Spring is this good speed up the calendar I can't wait for fall!

Odilon S/S 2012

The next stop on my fashion week journey was the Odilon presentation at the Met Pavilion which was another small but concise collection of daywear seperates. As for this collection its straightforward with solid colors and design details which catch the eye but pull me towards that famous French Gator house, you know the one. Its got that prep edge which I love and the lines are clean, in the end this is a great line for something classic with a modern twist.

Kaufmanfranco S/S 2012

The name Kaufmanfranco does not ring a bell but according to reps for the line its been around for about 7 years. There S/S 2012 presentation was held in a small corporate office filled with mannequins  which made it hard to navigate the collection. Daywear seems to be tan neutrals made from fine Italian leather with some pieces mixed with fabric, as for evening its more dramatic with gowns encrusted with jewels. The strength in this collection clearly leans on the daywear and its neutral color palette, as for evening we have seen these kind of gowns before and there is little red carpet contention when you have covered an entire gown in stones etc.

Jonathan Cohen SS 2012

Relative new comer Jonathan Cohen showed a small but concise collection of dresses at the Gansevort hotel in the meatpacking district. At roughly 16 pieces and mostly dresses Mr. Cohen limited himself to a restricted color pallette and found inspiration in of all things a bicycle sprocket which has designed various prints from. As for his price points they seem to be under $3,000.00 and he describes his customer as a woman who has money is relaxed but not a slave to fashion. As I waited to photograph the line WWD was shooting and shot the entire collection. Keep an eye out for this designer he shows major promise.