Sunday, February 22, 2009

Dennis Basso Fall 2009




For fall 2009 Dennis Basso has proven that he has a strong hand in the separates department along with evening wear. Yes we know it's all about the wonderful fur creations he constructs, but we were more impressed in the dresses and pants that served as a backdrop to the furs. A much stronger outing then his Spring collection, Mr. Basso has served up a line that's worthy of just about everything that he showed! The black evening dresses and his black slacks for day are cut fantastically and exude a strong confident upper east side lady.

Photos: Dan Lecca for Mercedes~Benz

The Evolution of Erin Featherston Fall 2009





Although we did not get a invitation for this collection we had seen Erin Featherston's collections from seasons past and we are big fans of this up and coming designer. In the beginning we were captured by her soft and delicate use of fabrics but for the fall season this has changed. It seems from what she has shown for the fall 2009 season, the designer has gone in a more mainstream direction, making the clothing more appealing to women. Of note are the ballerina dresses and the red suit. The line is less fairytale like as in seasons past and more commercial. Expect to see this line in heavy editorial use from major magazines. She's a new hot designer and she's not going away anytime soon.

Photos: Dan Lecca for Mercedes Benz

Tibi Fall 2009





We have been big fans of the Tibi line since we first saw it last year at Mercedes Benz swim week in Miami, but this season the house drew inspiration from Russia which had us cringing since this was the fall trend two seasons ago and proved to be not very successful for many designers that took hold of this design direction resulting in flat sales and a lack of translating this look to American and European women. As for what was shown was a series of "firebird prints" and Russian flower type prints. But look hard and there are some standout pieces, The haute bourgeouis sequin blazer strapless crepe dress with drape was a standout. As well the Bolshevik wool coat seemed to be a great editorial piece. In a season with a slumping economy Tibi did break from the pack and showed something different, which takes guts.

Photos: Dan Lecca for Mercedes Benz

Duckie Brown Fall 2009




Well the boys at Duckie Brown are at it again with another great collection for men! This season was a strong showing of jackets and coats which is fine by us. The strength of Duckie Brown is their restricted use of color as well they was they cut their clothing. Clean lines and well tailored is what you will find. You can even go back to past collections and this design direction stays true to form. It's our favorite men's line hands down and should be yours as well. As for our standout picks, the over coats in black had our name all over them!

Photos: Dan Lecca for Mercedes~Benz

Terexov Fall 2009





The house of Terexov from Russia has returned to show yet again at New York Fashion Week. The collection is vast and expansive with lot's of variation but what seems to lack is a focus and direction to the line. Doing prints for any designer is hard and Terexov showed "city scape" designs. The better more appealing looks came from the solid dresses and suits. As for the customer we had a hard time coming up with the "Terexov girl", but they might still be trying to find the customer for this line. Rome was not built in a day and it might just be a matter of time for them to gain solid footing design wise. In seasons past we have seen better collections from this house and maybe the spring season is where their talent lies.

Photos: Dann Lecca for Mercedes~Benz

Monday, February 16, 2009

Karen Sabag Fall 2009





Karen Saba has had a few seasons under her belt as a designer. Her past collections seemed to have a more costume design feel with not much attention paid to ready to wear clothing. But with age comes wisdom, and the fall 2009 collection is a vast separation to what she’s done in the past. Gone are the fantasy inspired looks we saw years ago, Karen has embraced the ready to wear aspect and is trying to harness her client with a wearable collection of fitted and structured pieces. Showing a thirty-six piece collection might be a bit much in these economic times, there is a vast selection to choose from for both day and evening. Her fabric selections rage from silk charmeuse, double faced satin and organza, just to name a few. What we like most about this collection is that for the first time there is a focus to the clothing and a concentrated effort to producing a line with a fluid feel. If she stays on this path great things should come down the road.

Photos:R.Spiegel

Spurr Fall 2009





The Spurr fall 2009 collection is a testament to fine tailoring for men. Suits and selected outerwear is what you’ll find here along with a hefty price point. The collection if for the man who is looking for stylish well cut clothes and who’s in good physical shape. We where shown around 25 looks and it all looks great to us, but in these trying times it might be a tough sell since most men are not concerned nor conscious of fashion. So the buying might be left to the girl friends and wives.

Photos: R.Spiegel

Bibhu Mohapatra Fall 2009





New comer to New York fashion week is Bibhu Mohapatra who previously worked at the house of J.Mendel. But now Mr. Mohapatra strikes out on his own with a very limited selection of ladies pieces. The fabric he’s using commands a high price point, and for the silhouette it’s a very polished look with clean lines. As for the customer think society girls 30’s and up, with that once disposable income now put on hold due to the economy. Bibhu Mohapatra has the talent, but with other more established designers with the same client, getting them over to his side of design might be a struggle.


Photo’s: R.Spiegel

Wednesday, February 11, 2009

Lincs by David Chu Fall 2009




When a designer gets his head out of the clouds and his feet on the ground, great things can happen. David Chu's fall 2009 collection for men is a breath of fresh air both design wise and also financially. Fully understanding the economic situation in America Mr.Chu has a price point that can't be beat. The design direction leans towards a high-end formal bespoke style.

The majority of the collection ranges under $500 and woven sweaters should retail between $88 & 98 dollars. The outerwear will be around $195 with some pieces in the $350 range. Granted the collection might not embrace the "finest fabrics", Mr. Chu has designed a collection worthy of the recession dollar.

Thursday, February 5, 2009

Loris Diran's New Flagship Boutique





John Varvatos finds new competition with Loris Diran's new boutique which has just opened in the newly re-developed Bowery district. The store will house both Men's bespoke and Women's high-end collections. The shop is done in a beautiful neutral tone which allows the customer to focus on the clothing and not be distracted by outlandish interiors in other stores we have experienced in the shopping mecca of New York City.

As for the clothing we saw in the shop, his fall collection was on view and was a limited color palette of burgundy and neutral tones. What impressed us most was his selection of menswear which seems to be the lessor of his focus. The silhouette is very lean and you have to be fit to don these clothes. Mr. Diran demonstrates his skill in cut and structure with his men's line, we were overly impressed. As for the ladies his talent runs the same with a restricted, focused selection.

As we chatted with the designer we discovered that we had a businessman on our hands! He's focused on selling clothing and building his brand. At the end of the day you have to sell the clothing and Mr.Diran is committed to this. He views his male consumer as the "straight male hipster", and the neighborhood is full of them. To view his website www.lorisdiran.com